Re: Another chicken chicken newbie

From: Jill. (news_at_REMOVETHISkintaline.co.uk)
Date: 02/17/05 

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 12:31:20 -0000

hal@nospam.com wrote:
> I got referred here by some kindly chap from another group.

hi and welcome

> I have not found good example plans for coops. I have seen some
> structure ideas, but I am more interested in internal structures, like
> arrangements and spacing for nests and roosts. Googles don't turn up
> much except people wanting to sell plans or books. I am pretty handy
> with building small buildings, and can do a nice coop, but could use
> some more ideas about internal layouts, windows, and ventilation. I
> have a nice south facing slope so will have lots of sun.
> Should I
> have south facing windows for lots of light in the coop, or keep the
> south wall mostly solid and dark color to absord heat in the winter
> and shade in the summer?

The coop should be somewhere where the temperatures are not going to be
changing wildly. The inside wants to be cool and not too bright. The main
use of the house during the day is to lay in and chickens prefer it dark. So
you want the nestboxes in the darkest side. Obviously you want to be able to
see inside and light is useful to keep them laying in the winter months.
You want good natural ventilation - all high so the "used" air is pulled up
from the birds and the "new" air comes in down the walls, not across their
heads.

>
> How many birds would typically provide a family of four with plenty of
> eggs?

A good commercial bird will lay around 250 - 300 eggs a year depending on
how well she is fed and how stress free she is [bear in mind that being free
range is more stressful than being inside as there are more influences on
her] so with careful storage and clever "budgeting" of eggs in the lean
months of the winter you should have eggs most of the year around. However
they will only last a couple of years before needing replaced
A pure breed will be less - from 50 eggs a year up to the 250 depending on
breed and then strain within that breed. This means you will have a glut in
the spring and summer and less at other times
SO the answer is it depends on your choice of birds :~)
4 people eating 8 eggs a week [ including baking etc] each = 32 eggs
If a commercial bird lays 6 eggs a week most of the year you need 6 hens to
keep you going
If you chose the more interesting but less productive breeds then you may
want to look at 8 - 10
IF you want broody hens as well you need more cos a broody hen is not laying
so cuts down your numbers considerably - each brood can take up to 55 eggs
off your annual total

  If you start breeding and producing your own chicks, can one
> reasonably expect to produce enough to be self sustaining (I have lots
> of land) ?

In replacement pullets - yes - remembering that breeding from the
commercials will not give you the best layers. Their parents are very
different from themselves - its the combination of the parent stock
qualities that give you the highly commercial bird.
Pure breeds obviously is a different matter

 How many hens and roosters would typically be expected to
> provide a self sustaining flock?

If you are incubating with an incubator you need to take a couple of doxen
eggs from your collection - which hopefully will give you around 6 - 12 hens
allowing for 50 % cockerels and some losses. While you do not need to
replace your girls every year you could do this every other year. Or you
sell the surplus to give you income to make it more selfsustaining
So you only need to add one cockerel to your flock of 6 - 10 birds

>
> I understand layers are not year round producers. What kind of long
> term production can you expect and how can you maximize this? (I am
> thinking about Rhode Island Reds)

It depends on the qualities of the RIR you are looking at - that depends on
the selection the breeder has been doing. Its easy to lose egg production if
you are concentrating on other features or not selecting at all
With all birds they lay best in their first couple of yeares and then it
slackens off a bit. With some less productive pure breeds this is less
noticeable. However good vigourous RIR should continue to lay well for 6 - 7
years at least. and may for more. You would probably be down to 100 - 150
eggs a year at this point

>
> How does everyone like Rhode Island Reds? I like the large brown
> eggs, and Reds seem to double well as good meat producers and I would
> like a good dual purpose hearty breed.

If the breeder you get them from has been selecting for those qualities -
yes

>
> I live in Montana USA. Winter temperatures can dip sub zero (F)
> although not for very long. Typical temperatures are 20s-30s (-10 to
> 0 C) . Summer temps typically not over 80-90, and very rarely over
> 100 F. According to Storey I should build an insulated coop. Does
> everyone agree? Will electric pet bowls work for providing water
> during freezing temperatures?

Those who live in such areas will have to advise you there - we do not get
such temperatures

>
> I understand chickens do better if allowed to browse a larger area
> than a confined pen.

Absolutely -- the more space the less impact
The best is a house you can pick up and move - or pull on skids every few
months
This way you can move it around your large space and the grazing is used
more evenly

 I live in the country with no fences. Are
> chickens homing enough that they will stick around or return to their
> pen, or am I going to have to keep going and rescue my neighbors from
> my chickens?

Chickens come back to the house to feed, to lay and at night

 Am I going to end up running around like an idiot trying
> to herd my chickens back into their pen? (my family would bust a gut
> laughing at me over that one)

No -- thats ducks :~))
You may have to be up late at night tho in the summer cos you have to wait
for dusk before they go to bed

>
> I have three labrador retrievers that are pretty docile, and fairly
> well behaved. If I can let my chickens roam, should I expect
> dog/chicken altercations?

AS long as the dogs behave themselves :~))
CHickens come with ammunition and the wherewithall to use it but obviously
the dogs must respect them

>
> Can you really order chicks through the mail and get them to show up
> alive?

It seems you can still in the US and we are all very jealous elsewhere where
we cannot anymore

> How well and quickly will they adapt to new surroundings?

You need brooding facilities for chicks.

> Seems kind of cruel to box the little buggers up and put them in a
> mailbox.

As long as its done well they travel fine

>
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide. Links to proven and trusted
> stock providers and suggestions on varieties for my situation greatly
> appreciated.

Thats for the US posters :~)
Good luck and have fun in your new [addict..] hobby 

--
regards
Jill Bowis
Pure bred utility chickens and ducks
Housing; Equipment,  Books, Videos, Gifts
Herbaceous; Herb and Alpine nursery
Working Holidays in Scotland
http://www.kintaline.co.uk
>
> Hal