Re: Need help understanding how to use opto-isolator

>Specifically, on your remote control are the OPEN and CLOSE functions
separate or does a single button toggle them?

It's a toggle switch, I need it "pressed" for a little less than a
second for it to activate the garage door then I have to let it go or
else the motor won't respond. So I would imagine I need a pluse that
last about 800 to 900 milliseconds.

The alarm clock runs off 3V DC. I measured the DC voltage with a
multimeter between the two solder points on the buzzer itself -- so it
was across the buzzer. Should I be measuring it someplace else?

>I'm assuming that you're planning on paralleling the contacts on the
remote's keypad with whatever will be actuating it. Am I right?

I wanted to extend two leads from the solder points on the buzzer to an
opto-isolator which would activate the "pulse" to the garage door
remote through an intermediate circuit.

Here's a new diagram, as well as front/back images of the remote.

http://img195.echo.cx/img195/4791/diagram6yf.jpg

Front side of the remote:
http://img195.echo.cx/img195/1594/remotefront5nd.jpg

Back side of the remote (red lines are show the traces)
http://img195.echo.cx/img195/6156/remoteback8tt.jpg

I'm having a hard time getting a for the voltage accross the toggle
switch on the remote. I read 0 no matter if the switch is toggled or
not. I am probably not laying my probes across the switch correctly.
Do I need to touch both pairs of connectors at the same time?

I'm assuming that I would use an opto-isolator to interface the pluse
circuit to the remote and that the output of the opto-isolator will be
enough to activiate the remote? I guess I'll just have to try it an
see.

I was going to use an 4N27 opto-isolator
(www.vishay.com/document/83519/83519.pdf) between the clock and between
the remote.

thanks again, let me know if y'all have any thoughts or questions...

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