Re: converting probles to clamp-on

*selah* wrote: 
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*selah* wrote:

"*selah*" <pzion.naax@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
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Oops - sorry. I just realized - the manual calls for .05A 

sensitivity -

not mA - so I can't use this meter. Got it confused because the test 

can

also be done with a shunt and a meter that has .05 mV sensitivity.

Thanks for the responses anyway.


You more than likely can use the meter.
.05 A = 50 mA  and it is likely that your meter has a
range that will accomodate that.  On your next post,
tell us the model number of the Micronta meter,



The model # is 22-191

 and

what the current measuring ranges are. 


The current drain is supposed to be less than .05A.

 Also, as other

posters have indicated, the information you provide
is incomplete, making it next to impossible to give
you a good answer.  For example, you say "the manual
calls for .05A sensitivity".  What manual?



Ford shop manual.

What is

the manual telling you to do? 


Battery Drain Test with a Clamp-On DC Ammeter

Test Procedure

1. Turn the ignition to OFF and make sure there are no electrical loads.
After determining that the underhood lamp is shutting off properly,
disconnect the bulb.

2. Clamp the meter clip securely around the positive or ground battery
cable (all cables if two or more leads to the post).

NOTE:
Do not start vehicle with clip on cable.

Test Conclusion

The current reading (current drain) should be less than .05 amps.

Why are you doing it -

what problem are you trying to solve or what information
are you trying to gather?  etc.



Our battery went dead recently although we just bought it new. We
recharged it. The charger showed that it was at very low charge at the
beginning (the charger ammeter was showing 10A going to the battery),
after about 6 hours it was fully charged and the charger ammeter showed
4A going to the battery. 

Yes, sounds flat.

I tested the battery with a hydrometer and the
hydrometer practically didn't float, (it read at the top of the tube in
the dead battery region.) 

A assume this was before the charging session.

We took the battery in to a repair shop and
they tested it with their "snap-on" tester. I assume it was a load test.
It said the battery was good. These are the results:

Battery size 660 CCA
Available Amp 798 CCA
% Rated Capactiy 120%
Battery Temp 70 F
Initial Volts 12.90 V
Final Volts 12.33 V
Impedance 4.00 m ohms

They also tested the alternator (good) and starter (good).


Ed 


Hi Ed,

so you want to check whether the car is draining the battery when it's idle?

Have you had any electrical work done prior to your problems like a towbar fitting, new radio, new alarm system, new alternator? If so, they would be my prime suspects. Look at the car at night for bulbs left on (eg interior light, boot light).

I'd try something very simple rather than risking wrecking the meter.

With engine stopped, remove the the *** earth connection *** from your battery. Note if you get a spark if you re-touch them - an indication of a fair load.

Get a 12 volt bulb, and connect the bulb between battery post and the lead you've just removed. Do it by hand - no clips, clamps etc; there will be no flashes or bangs if you fumble bulb, lead, post, chassis together, provided you stay away from the other post and lead. If a headlamp bulb shines like a searchlight you have a real problem - load of five or six amps. Can you get hold of one of those 12v to 24v test screwdriver things with a bulb in the handle and a trailing lead? Cost a few pounds in UK, but test it first by connecting between + and - of the battery and don't ever use it for mains testing! Try that for a more sensitive test - a mere little tiny glow will be a lot less than 0.05A = 50mA. If you really want to try the meter to actually measure the drain, then do the bulb test first and only use the meter if you get a small glow or nothing - try the meter with high current settings first. Again, just hold the meter leads against the battery post and the lead you've removed.

If you do get a bulb glowing, then the next step is to find out where the current is leaking, and pulling fuses might give a clue. Take your bulb off, pull a bank of fuses, (remember where they came from!) try the bulb again til you lose the drain. Things like alarm systems, central locking, radios with reset codes and clocks do draw a small current, probably far less than the 50mA mentioned.

If having pulled all fuses you still have the drain, remember that some circuits might not have a fuse - eg generator, starter via solenoid, horn, but your manual will tell you that. Check by disconnecting them. A bust diode in the alternator could cause a leak (but might cause the ignition warning light to glow?).

A warning - I was present when a contractor in a telephone exchange managed to short an accumulator with a spanner. A nasty big instant bang with acid and glass all over the place. Wrap tape round the spanner if you work with the positive (non earthed) lead OR disconnect the earthed one first.

Good luck !  Let us all know how you get on.

Phil


.

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