Re: Is this practical?

On Thu, 28 Jun 2007 17:45:16 GMT, spambait@xxxxxxxxxx (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article <tnq783hrg0a7id67gg5v2m6mcoqav5ha4v@xxxxxxx>, Eric R Snow <etpm@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
My neighbor and I were talking the other day about the frozen pipes in
his shop. This is because he didn't insulate enough the pipes in the
walls and because it's only heated when he is working in it on the
weekends. Now, with the walls covered and with benches permanently
mounted he doesn't even want to consider trying to add more
insulation. As it is just repairing the split pipes will take him at
least 30 hours. He could drain the pipes but he forgot just once hence
the split pipes. He could also leave the water on but that would mean
pumping a lot of water out of the well. So I opened my big mouth and
suggested running a low voltage through the pipes to warm them up.

Let me see if I have this straight.

Electrical code requires metal water pipes to be bonded to the grounding
electrode of the building's electrical system, to ensure that the water piping
is at zero potential with respect to ground and thus eliminate the possibility
of electric shock from touching a water pipe.

And you're proposing deliberately placing a voltage on those pipes.
Yes Doug, the pipe is indeed grounded with two grounding rods driven
into the soil about 8 feet. Just one end. I propose applying 12 to 20
volts to both ends of the pipe. And since the pipe is still at ground
potential there will be no more shock hazard than there exists now
with the neutral line from the mains AC also connected to the same
grounding rods as the pipe. Unless I'm missing something. If so please
tell me what, that's why I posted the question in the first place.
Eric
.

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