Re: Working with Knobs and Tubes Electrical Installations



In article <C31D3CBE.783B4%dbowey@xxxxxxxxxxx>,
Don Bowey <dbowey@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On 9/23/07 11:48 AM, in article fd8qhu$4a0$1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Mark
Zenier" <mzenier@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

In article <uDrJi.51469$Um6.9584@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,
W. Watson <wolf_tracks@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I would think if installed a 6' copper ground bar into the soil outside his
house, and use 3-prong outlets where the ground wire is to the copper pole,
that it would pass code.

If SF is like Seattle, if you don't have a ground rod
the power panel ground is bonded to your water line.

You'll need to run the ground from the rod to your power panel where it
is hooked to the neutral line in the power drop. Otherwise you're
relying on the random condutivity between the safety ground and the
neutral to blow the fuse if case of a fault. You could end up with
stuff live because it didn't blow, or random parts of your house heating
up from the stray current.

Also if this is a subpanel off of another box..., well, hire a pro.

(I am not a Lawyer or an Electrician).


Mark Zenier mzenier@xxxxxxxxxx
Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)



The US Code calls for a ground rod tie (length specified) in addition to
being tied to the power Co, neutral and ground.

I'm talking about old practice, not current code. The code changes.
For example, they didn't use plastic pipe in the old days.

The second point is that using a seperate ground and just running that
to some outlets is a serious safety hazard.

Mark Zenier mzenier@xxxxxxxxxx
Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)



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Relevant Pages

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