Re: Battery charging circuit
From: Damn Dan (a_at_a.com)
Date: 10/19/04
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2004 18:59:18 -0700
"Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote
in message news:10n7f92rkhicha4@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Ross Herbert" <rherber1SPAMEX@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
> news:ptr6n0hbnfpbro61itov63eqrupmuc6nnr@4ax.com...
> > You are starting from the wrong end...
> >
> > You need to determine the charging requirements of the 165V battery
> > itself before anything else. Only then can you determine what is
> > required of your charging circuitry and design it accordingly. The
> > fact that you want to use a 12V (nominal), 80W solar panel as the
> > charging source simply because that is what you have on hand is not
> > the way to go about the problem. Once you know what the charging
> > requirements of the battery are you can then determine how many solar
> > panels you will require in order to charge a 12V,24V or 48V battery to
> > power a suitable dc - ac inverter/rectifier/charging arrangement.
>
> I don't buy that at all. Firs off, he doesn't need to know the charging
> requuirements of the 165V battery because it can charge at anywhere up
> to hundreds of amps for short periods. And he will never be able to buy
> enough solar cells to do that, let alone the next problem.
>
> And the next problem is that the solar cells will put out anywhere from
> max to min to zero depending on the time of day, and the weather,
> cloudy, overcast, etc. So he needs a converter that can handle a large
> variation in input power. Why should he need an intermediate battery,
> 12V, etc. to charge? That's just a waste of efficiecny.
>
> What he needs is a converter that monitors the input voltage to see if
> it drops below a threshold, as long as it stays at about 12V, pull as
> much current from the solar cells as it can. Then monitor the output
> voltage to make sure it doesn't go much above 200V, so that if the
> converter is not plugged into the battery, it shuts down.
>
> What I would do is start with a standard Dc-Dc converter like those used
> for running tube equipment off 12V. Add an overvoltage monitor to the
> output, and under voltage to the input. And fuses, of course.
>
> And he can put a large capacitor across the solar cell, to hold enough
> charge to run the converter for a second or two. If the converter
> charges in spurts, that's okay, too.
Right, getting enough panels to produce that much voltage would be
financially and physically impossible. The second problem you mentioned is
actually the very reason I went for the 12V battery as a middle-man.
Originally I wanted to hook the panel directly to the 165V battery through
the converter. But my main constraint is that I'm trying to do this El
Cheapo style. I did a bit of research but found no reasonably cheap (i.e.
less than $50) 12V-200V DC-DC converters. If you happen to know of one,
please let me know! The inexpensive solution I have come to is using a
regular car inverter that you plug into your cigarette lighter. That gives
me 120Vac. I step that up with a international power converter that you can
buy at any Radio Shack. The 200 or so volts out of that gets rectified to
DC. All in all, it cost just over $50. So now the reason I'm attaching the
car inverter to the 12V battery is all car inverters have safety mechanisms
that shut off power if the inverter detects a "weird" voltage input. The
solar panel outputs between 15V and 20V, which it considers "weird", so it
doesn't work. The 12V battery keeps the voltage at an unweird level. It
also accomodates for any variation that the solar panel will give due to
weather conditions and time of day. Plus, it keeps a steady, predictable
current into the 165V battery. But like I said, if you know of any
off-the-shelf, cheap converters that would accomplish the same goal, I'm all
ears.
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