Re: silicone for electronics?

In article <8rrn32h0m7eiq32h7508ig655s69ll0lcv@xxxxxxx>, Spehro Pefhany <speffSNIP@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On 11 Apr 2006 09:08:37 -0700, the renowned rose250@xxxxxxxxxxxx
wrote:

Hi,
is there a silicone or similar product which works best for
electronics? I made a toggle switch that has 3 wires soldered on to it,
and want to protect the connections so they don't come loose or
bend/crack. I need some sort of silicone that will harden when dry. Any
suggestions? thanks.

http://www.logwell.com/tech/servtips/RTV.html

But maybe shrink tubing would be more suitable for you

I read the link. I say its bull. I'm not an expert, just a user.
I'll tell another thing. Silicone is micro porous. Supposidly
there are different formulations, some say not
for use underwater. In my experiance on outdoor automobiles, its
use to waterseal screws and stuff is not good. After several years
of remaining on steel, I have found the steel rusted, and that because
water vapor does go through silicone and causes the rust.
Go ahead, and put a dap on some copper and let it there
for a day, and another dap for a couple weeks. Remove and check it
out. I have not done this test myself. So vapors do escape over a short
period. I read a nice article in Nuts and Volts many years ago talking
about sealing boating connections. Before using silicone on connections, coat
them with enamel first. Lacquer is not a very good sealer either
being porous. My front bra on my Datsun just about destroyed my
lacquer paint job in a couple hours.Also, if you examine silicone after
to exposure to a number of elements, it will discolor as it absorbs that element.
Silicon II has different properties and I think its different from the usual electronics
grade.Curing time, strength, and stickiness are different from silicone I. You can be sure
silicone I is the acedic type. It was always interesting to me, silicone needs moisture to cure.

greg
.

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