Re: diagnosing toner transfer problems
- From: "scada" <scada@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 16:46:52 -0400
"DJ Delorie" <dj@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:xnzmdbbj7l.fsf@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Ok, this is an old blank (I've had it since I was a teenager) and the
"special paper" is a few years old too. Lots of reasons why it could
have gone wrong, but if it's something in my technique, I'd like to
benefit from someone else's experience :-)
low res: http://www.delorie.com/pcb/pcb-sm.html (88k jpeg)
high res: http://www.delorie.com/pcb/pcb.html (1.5M jpeg)
The board was sanded to 600 grit (yes, it was that oxidized) then
cleaned with dish soap and dried by paper towel then laying it on an
inverted iron for a few seconds to evaporate any remaining water. I
ironed at the cotton/linen setting for about a minute, moving the iron
around to avoid cold spots. The paper came off just fine in the
water.
The sections where the toner just peeled off are obvious; not enough
heat. However, I'm mostly wondering about the smudged parts, like the
board just above and left of center. Too much heat? Too much iron
motion? Some parts came out very crisp (like most of the board just
below it) so it *should* work OK if I can "tune it in".
DJ
I don't think you got it clean enough. I usualy use some #0000 steel wool to
polish. Also handle the cleaned board by it's edges, oils from your finger
prints can contaminate the board. I think you need to iron for a longer time
also, I seem to remember about 3-4 minutes.
.
- References:
- diagnosing toner transfer problems
- From: DJ Delorie
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