Re: diagnosing toner transfer problems


"DJ Delorie" <dj@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:xnzmdbbj7l.fsf@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Ok, this is an old blank (I've had it since I was a teenager) and the
"special paper" is a few years old too. Lots of reasons why it could
have gone wrong, but if it's something in my technique, I'd like to
benefit from someone else's experience :-)

low res: http://www.delorie.com/pcb/pcb-sm.html (88k jpeg)
high res: http://www.delorie.com/pcb/pcb.html (1.5M jpeg)

The board was sanded to 600 grit (yes, it was that oxidized) then
cleaned with dish soap and dried by paper towel then laying it on an
inverted iron for a few seconds to evaporate any remaining water. I
ironed at the cotton/linen setting for about a minute, moving the iron
around to avoid cold spots. The paper came off just fine in the
water.

The sections where the toner just peeled off are obvious; not enough
heat. However, I'm mostly wondering about the smudged parts, like the
board just above and left of center. Too much heat? Too much iron
motion? Some parts came out very crisp (like most of the board just
below it) so it *should* work OK if I can "tune it in".

DJ
Well, looks to me you pressed too hard. Use a light hand and longer heating
time. gently smooth the paper over the board after it is very hot. All you
want to due is make sure it is tacked down to the pcb, and not smashed onto
it. Remember, it's not the pressure that attaches the toner - its the heat.
Get some Emory cloth or wet/dry sanding paper as fine as you can get it.
Then clean it with soap n water and dry with an old undershirt, not paper.
Maybe even use a hair blow dryer on it. Any contaminant on the copper will
make your traces not stick. JTT


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