Re: IR LED to repair remote control

On Tue, 25 Sep 2007 23:45:53 +0000 (UTC), don@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Don
Klipstein) wrote:

In article <1190721429.562853.308820@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,
Andrew wrote:

snip

I just built a dual beam IR Tx/Rcv using the TSAL6100 and Panasonic
detector. If you don't have a scope you will be limited in determining
any problems.

One thing you can check with a DVM is the DC voltage that is applied
to the drive circuit. If you can determine the regulator then verify
with a DVM it's regulating properly. If it's a low dropout type and
it's failed this might explain why it works for a while after you
change the LED's. All components have probably been derated for at
least an ambient temp of 50 deg C. So if an extra 0.3V to 1V is
applied to the circuit it won't immediately be destructive. Depending
on the duty-cycle it may even be able to take substantially more
voltage (standard three terminal regulators) 2-5V for a time. I
designed mine for max range and 60 deg C ambient and they could
survive an extra three volts for a minute or so (this is continuous
use 10% overall duty cycle).The extra voltage drops across the current
limiting resistor, in my case almost doubling the current, and the
power dissipation in the LED's.

The TSAL6100 has a Radiant Intensity = 80mW/sr min - 130 typ mW/sr @
0.1A,and 650mW/sr min - 1000 typ mW/sr at 1A.

Versus the 18 to 37 mW/sr at 0.1A for the LTE-5228A.

And yes a digital camera can see IR at 940nm. I used it to align my
TX/Rcv.

If you can get the model of detector for your remote you want to match
the emitter wavelength to the detector for max sensitivity.
.

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