Re: AC to DC 65+ volts 60 amp Power Supply Plans?
- From: Ecnerwal <LawrenceSMITH@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2007 13:33:16 GMT
In article <13flfhioutaoba5@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,
"Ulysses" <eatmyspam@xxxxxxxxxxx/> wrote:
I'd be happy to buy a power supply if it's not
too expensive but so far all of my searches have not turned up anything.
Are there any web sites that have high current power supply plans? I
couldn't find any.
Hi Uly,
Knowing a fair bit about why you are trying to do it this way, several
things come to mind. The obvious-but-it-hurts-the-wallet method to get
an off the shelf charger is to drop bucks on another inverter (which
contains a nice high current switched-mode supply, filter capacitors,
charge control smarts so the MX60 can stay put on the solar panels and
not get involved), and set it up such that you are not using the
inverter section (where all that irritating pass-through-the-generator
stuff comes up when feeding the house power). Could be another Outback
(which would give you a spare to move around in case of any issues),
could be a less spendy brand.
Another off-the-shelf option is to visit the local golf cart dealer, as
48V golf carts need 48V (really 60+V, same as your "48V" bank) chargers,
but I don't know that they pay much attention to efficiency when
designing those.
The best method for fuel to DC is fuel to DC, not fuel to 60 Hz AC to
DC. In reality, what's commonly available (other than esoteric and
overpriced "48V" DC gensets for the cell tower market) is fuel driven
welders, most of which are doing some form of 3 phase on the way to DC,
though there may be "true" direct DC versions (sounds like a lot of
brush wear issues, though). One with a decent OCV (in the 80 V range)
should work for you, though the main output power is typically intended
to be in the 24V range; but if you get one without too many new-fangled
smarts, it should be possible (perhaps with some taming of the MX60's
MPPT settings) to operate on the higher-voltage part of the curve. Might
take some fiddling with (or at least monitoring) the control
arrangement, I'd think.
Another approach is to grab a high-amperage car/truck alternator that
uses an off-board regulator, drive it with a fuel engine, and crank up
the voltage. These are also typically 3-phase AC, with a 6-diode bridge
rectifier. So long as the diodes are not overly low voltage, and you
keep the current within/well below the current rating, they are not
overly picky about what voltage they are putting out. The insulation
should be good for it, and the heat generated is a function of current.
Perhaps a heavy-duty truck alternator that's already intended for 24V
operation would be a good starting point, but I recall people talking
about ramping 12V units up to 70 volts for various purposes with either
no trouble, or frying low-spec diodes and replacing them with
higher-voltage units when they die. In the case of feeding your MX60,
I'd replace them at the start. 100-200 amp units are rather common, and
should not cost much at the junkyard.
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
.
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