Re: Need help designing an automotive engine run detector.

On Oct 8, 10:38 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Bad idea. You're bypassing the entire fuse and breaker protection
mechanisms in the vehicle. You would need to attach a fuse directly
to the positive terminal of the battery, a non-trivial exercise.
You're worried about the GUM (great unwashed masses) doing a proper
install, yet you don't seem to be worried about the same person is
going to get a wrench between the positive terminal and ground, with
the resultant smoke, fire, burns, and litigation.

Bad idea? Hmmm, I wonder how the high powered car amplifier market
gets by. They sell millions of those things a
year. Perhaps because they do not actually supply the wiring?
Similar case to the electric hedge cutters. Ever
see one lately with a corded pigtail for power? No? That's becuase
some fool probably cut through the supplied
pigtail, sued them, and won. So, to counteract, the guys making the
hedge cutters molded a plug into their handle.
Now if the fool cuts through the cord, they need to sue the extension
cord maker :).

I'll let our lawyers determine if we supply wiring, fuses harness to
connect to VBAT, etc... Or if we play it on the safe side and make it
the customers responsibility to supply these goods.

Yep. That's the worst case scenario for electronics. Roughly -40C to
+105C. Don't forget about water proofing and high voltage spikes on
the power lines.

I design underhood electronics to survive all know electrical system
faults and SAE-J1113-11 transients at +125C

When activated this product will draw about 5 amp.

75 watts? Where are you going to empty out the heat?

Product design and packaging will take this into account.


Ignition switch. If that's offensive, try the cancer stick igniter,
which only has power when the engine is running or the ACC switch is
on.

I didn't want to run additional wiring. However, if I have to, IGN
would be my 1st choice.

Thanks for your feedback Jeff.

Ge0


.

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