Re: Opinions on Oscilloscopes
- From: "RR" <newspaper.20.broom@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 21:30:29 GMT
"Walter Harley" <walterh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:AtCdnf6HF86T9qDeRVn-jg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> "RR" <newspaper.20.broom@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
> news:oOY_e.2738$U51.339@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Don't bother with a single channel scope (why would they even make them
any
> more!?). You'll find that it's very useful to compare waveforms, and for
> that you want a two-channel scope at least. But 10MHz, or more commonly
> 20MHz, is enough bandwidth for what you'll initially be doing.
>
> There are plenty of inexpensive Chinese-made 20MHz dual-channel scopes out
> there, at least in the states - Leader, for instance. Probably fine, for
a
> first scope. The difference between that and something like a Tek will be
> in things like the accuracy of the input stages and the sensitivity of
> triggering on short spikes, and maybe features depending on what models
> you're looking at.
>
> If it were me, I'd recommend getting a new Chinese scope as a first scope,
> unless you can land a used Tek or HP that is in guaranteed known good
> working order. There's no sense struggling to learn how to use a scope
that
> doesn't work; even working ones can be tricky to fully understand. Later
on
> when you understand how to work with it and what it *should* do, you can
get
> a scope of high quality but unknown condition.
Yes, a new Chineses scope is the way I'm leaning. My local (Australia)
electronics chain has a 10MHz (1 Channel) for about US$120. The 20MHz (2
Channel) is about US$300.
The low cost of the 10MHz seems great to get started for me. Then when I
get to the point I need a "real" scope, I might look at a PC-based digital
like the Stingray DS1M12 USB- I've got a couple of old PCs (133 and 120MHz)
sitting around doing nothing.
Though I keep reading mixed messages about PC-based scopes. OTOH, it seems
to me that to look at signal all you need is a fast A-to-D converter and the
right software; it's simple and obvious - unless I'm missing something.
But, I hear what you're saying about the 2 channel. So maybe I should go
for the 2 Channel Chinese and then I'll have a usable analog scope that will
last me for many years.
It's not like I'm a "professional repairer" and it's not going to be used 10
hours a day. In fact, it will probably spend 11 months of the year just
switched off (after my initial burst of study).
> 240V * 1.4 = 336V, by the way.
Thanks, yes I reviewed the RMS definition.
Thanks again for your advice, and also to others for their comments.
I must say the second hand market is a bit too hard for me to figure out as
a beginner.
Though I missed out (forgot to bid) on a Tek 2336 last week that went for
about US$300. The individual seller claimed it worked perfectly except the
screen was a little darkened and it was missing a case clip. It certainly
seemed like a real bargain at that price.
There's now a Tek 2215 in perfect order (with probe) currently bid at about
US$340. Very tempting....but like posters have alluded, who knows about its
calibration, and whether it will die in short time. And what about parts,
etc. etc. etc.
regards,
RR
.
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