Re: alternator circuit question

From: Jon G. (jon8338_at_peoplepc.com)
Date: 12/22/04 

Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 00:33:04 GMT

This idea of installing an external voltage regulator to bypass
a faulty computer, doesn't work. I put one on and it charged at
14 volts for about a day, then it jumped to 18 volts. I tried a
different brand voltage regulator, and it did the same. The
battery is boiling and smells like sulfur, the high beams went
out, and I'm in the hole for 2 voltage regulators that work like
junk.

I have a 7 watt 1.2 ohm ceramic resistor out of a TV set. It
can only handle 2 amps. If I put it in series between the
regulator and the alternator field, it should drop the voltage
to the field by 3 volts. However, I think I need a heavier duty
resistor.

Jon

Jon G. wrote:

> I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
> battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's
> nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't
> charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery,
> and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.
>
> there are 4 connections on the alternator
>
> L1: direct to battery, positive
> L2: direct to battery, negative
> c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
> c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.
>
> I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an external
> voltage regulator.
>
> What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2 be to
> do so?
>
> I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and adjust it
> until the alternator kicks on.
>
> The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in the
> alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)

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