Re: Tech: B&K 465 conversion help needed. Long post
From: remove (_at_inetnebr.com)
Date: 07/16/04
- Next message: Orange: "Re: TV has 130V DC on A/V input!"
- Previous message: Tom MacIntyre: "Re: TV has 130V DC on A/V input!"
- In reply to: Pat D.: "Tech: B&K 465 conversion help needed. Long post"
- Next in thread: JURB6006: "Re: Tech: B&K 465 conversion help needed. Long post"
- Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ]
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 16:15:50 -0500
"Pat D." wrote:
> Please excuse the length of the post. This is my first post here. I also
> posted this in RGVAC in the hopes of finding someone who has done a similar
> conversion. Any help would be appreciated. To respond directly, please
> remove the obvious from my e-mail address.
>
> Boy, I'm having a tough time with this one. I'm posting this information to
> collect it all in one area in the hopes of helping others with similar
> problems. If any information in here is incorrect, please let me know and I
> will fix it. I will then post photos etc. of my conversion and testing to
> assist others in the RGVAC community. I will not be using this to test
> anything other than arcade monitors and tubes stolen from TV sets. Try to
> stick with me here. The information gets a little confusing. You have to
> realize, I'm doing this to save a few bucks and probably will end up
> spending more than I care to. You don't necessarily have to read this whole
> thing. My specific questions are listed towards the end of the post. So if
> you have all the answers, jump right to the end. Thanks in advance.
>
> Bought a B&K 465 (dated 1966) to restore my worn arcade tubes and check the
> color guns etc. It was fairly cheap so I figured, what the heck, give it a
> shot. I realize now the easiest thing to do would have been to purchase a
> 467 or later model but I have two of these now and really don't want to buy
> a third unless I have to.
>
> I have been Googling for several hours now and know all sorts of stuff about
> rejuvenators etc. but still cannot figure this out. My goal is to somehow
> hardwire my B&K 465 to a 12 pin molex connector to use the CR-23 adaptor as
> well as the CR-31. I realize the SP-65 was a special adaptor made for the
> 465 to allow it to use the later model adaptors (SP-66 for the 466) but B&K
> doesn't have them anymore and there is no pinout information that I can find
> outlining how to make one. One of the setup charts I have states that the
> SP-65 allows you to select different color guns by leaving the B/W -R-G-B
> switch in the R position and selecting the guns with the SP-65. According
> to previous posts from way back, (Matt Osborn 8/15/2002) this is the info
> available on this particular model.
>
> With the grey-shielded wiring bundle currently hard-wired to the 465 case
> and the round, hard-wired adapter stock to the 465, this is the pinout
> according to early sources: (Matt Osborn) {Please note: I'm not 100
> percent this is correct as listed. See my comments}
>
> pin 1 (red) - heater
> pin 2 (brown) - G1-G ( I think this is really G1 special)
> pin 3 - NC
> pin 4 (orange) - GK (I believe this is G1-G)
> pin 5 - NC
> pin 6 - NC
> pin 7 (yellow) - G2-R (I believe this is RK)
> pin 8 (purple) - G1-B (I believe this is GK)
> pin 9 (blue) - G2-B (I believe this is BK)
> pin 10 (white) - RK (I believe this is G3,G4 whatever that is)
> pin 11 (green) - BK, G1-R, G2-G ??? (I believe this is K special-- again
> don't know what that is)
> pin 12 - heater
>
> I'd like to hardwire this grey harness to a 12 pin molex connector to be
> able to use the later model adapters like the CR23 and CR31. According to
> follow-up posts, this is the hardwire pinout according to "Robert Henderson"
> provided to Matt. Again, I cannot verify this information's accuracy.
>
> 465 to CR23 round adapter (not the molex pin numbers)
>
> Pin 1 - Pin 9 (heater)
>
> Pin 2 - NC
>
> Pin 3 - NC
>
> Pin 4 - Pin 5 (G1)
>
> Pin 5 - NC
>
> Pin 6 - NC
>
> Pin 7 - Pin 8 (red cathode)
>
> Pin 8 - Pin 6 (green cathode)
>
> Pin 9 - Pin 11 (blue cathode)
>
> Pin 10 - Pins 1, 7 (G3, G2)
>
> Pin 11 - NC
>
> Pin 12 - Pin 10 (heater)
>
> So, that begs the question: What do I do with pins 2 and 11 from the
> original harness? (Brown and green) Do I trace them back to the tester and
> remove them? Tape them up and leave them? I know I will have to run a
> jumper from pin 10 (465) to the pins of the molex connector that correspond
> to Pins 1 and 7 of the CR23 in order for this to work.(that would be Molex
> pins 10 and 12 for the CR23 but probably also 9 and 11 for other adapters.
> Correct me if I am wrong)
>
> My limited understanding for the change from the 465 to the 466/467 was the
> change in design of the color picture tubes being made at that time. I have
> a tech letter from B&K that outlines the steps necessary to convert the 465
> Tester and the adapter to test "newer model picture tubes" but can see that
> it was not done to this particular unit. I purchased a second unit (1968
> vintage) and it has only had half the conversion done to it. However, it
> has a different wiring harness on it (a thicker black rubberized cable with
> a rubberized connector on the end. It is also interesting to note that the
> color socket tester CR-61 has different color wiring than the earlier model
> socket adapters. It is a rubbery plug vs. the hard plastic type round plugs
> found with the earlier model) Included with the 2nd 465 is a letter with the
> following info:
>
> "Test cable 522-032-9-001 is now obsolete. Test cable 523-039-9-001 will
> work on this model if wired as follows.
>
> socket pin # Obsolete cable color
> Alternate Cable color
>
> 1 Red
> orange/blk white/black black/white
>
> 2 Brown
> white
>
> 4 Orange
> Green
>
> 7 Yellow
> Red/Black
>
> 8 Violet
> Green/Black
>
> 9 Blue
> Blue/Black
>
> 10 White
> Orange
>
> 11 Green
> Black
>
> 12 Black
> Blue/White Green/White Red/White
>
> Note: The Red and Blue Wires in the alternate cable are not used
>
> dated 12/14/78 #2022 "
>
> I believe this tester to have the new cable installed. The colors match the
> 466 colors used in the conversion chart listed a few paragraphs down.
> Interesting to note is that the "red and Blue Wires are not used" These
> would correspond to the G1 red and the G1 blu connections for the molex
> connector.
>
> A letter from B&K included with tester number 1 states that you need to
> jumper each position of the R-G-B test switch together and then run a
> resistor from each position of the back side of the switch to another
> resistor. I quote:
>
> "......Due to some changes in color picture tubes available in the field, we
> find that the 465 can be updated to meet the new requirements. This is
> being done in production now. In the event that you want to bring your own
> 465 up-to-date, we are detailing the change for you. ......
>
> The modifications necessary to enable the Model 465 to test all the latest
> CRT's as accurately as possible are:
>
> 1. Rewire the color socket assembly, each socket has a green wire on pin
> No. 9. This wire must be clipped so at least 2 inches of wire is left
> connected to pin No. 9. This will disconnect pin No. 9 from any other pin.
> Strip 1/4 inch of insulation from the white wires approximately 1 inch from
> both sockets without cutting the wires and solder the green wires from Pin
> No. 9 to the white wires, tape these connections. Each socket will have its
> connection from pin No. 9 to the white wire from the socket.{Interesting
> note, my color sockets do not have a green wire on Pin 9. They are on pin 7
> of the small color and Pin 6 of the large color adapter. What's more, there
> is no white wire on either color socket assembly. This is driving me batty}
>
> 2. Remove the tester from the cabinet and locate the slide switch marked
> "Color", there is a violet, white, yellow and grey wire connected to this
> switch, add a jumper wire to connect all together.
>
> To each of the terminals on the switch with the blue, orange and brown wire
> connect a 9.1 megohm resistor with approximately 1 inch lead length.
> Connect all three resistors to the terminal strip along side of the switch,
> to junction with a grey wire and an 82K, 2W resistor."
>
> A drawing is provided but it is a little light in printing after 25+ years.
> I could try to scan it for posting if needed.
>
> I contacted B&K and they provided me with the following information to
> convert 466 CRT testers. They told me I could use it for earlier models as
> well. Unfortunately, I believe he was mistaken as the 465 probably needs
> the mod mentioned above and the wire colors listed don't correspond to their
> chart. For those interested in modding their 466 unit, these should work.
> They are taken from page -63- of some sort of B&K manual.
>
> 466 wire 466 Round connector
> 467/490 Rectangular Molex Connector
>
> wht/blk & blk/wht--orng/blk 1
> 1 Heater
>
> blu/wht grn/wht & red/wht 12
> 2 Heater
>
> red 3
> 3 G1 red
>
> grn 4
> 4 G1 grn
>
> blu 5
> 5 G1 blu
>
> red/blk 7
> 6 K red
>
> grn/bl 8
> 7 K grn
>
> blu/blk 9
> 8 K blu
>
> G1 special white 2 No
> connection
>
> 6 nc
>
> K special black 11 nc
>
> orange 10
> (wired to 4 sockets)-----> 9 G2 red,10 G2 grn,11 G2 blu,12 G3,G4
>
> Finally, comparing the two 465 testers I have side by side, the only obvious
> differences I can see in the tester's wiring etc. are the 3 resistors
> mentioned in the service letter. The wiring on the back side of the R-G-B
> switch is not connected together per the letter. I am wondering if the
> SP-65 adapter accomplished the same thing? Without one to look at, I cannot
> say. Does anyone out there know what the SP-65 did besides switch from
> round to Molex? Did the SP-65 only work with the later model cable?
>
> This is all I have. If anyone can tell me these four things with a high
> degree of certainty, I would be more than willing to purchase a case of
> their favorite brew.
>
> Question 1: Can I somehow splice a three position switch in line with my
> original socket pin 4 (orange) and then run lines to Molex pins 3, 4, and 5
> to allow me to test the corresponding color guns? This is assuming I have
> my information correct. If so, any special requirements for the switch?
> Could you explain to me how to wire it?
>
> Question 2: What did connecting the 3 positions of the R-G-B switch with
> jumpers and resistors accomplish? I'm no electronics expert by any means
> but I believe it basically turned the 3-way switch on the unit into a
> 1-position switch and transferred the switching to the SP-65 for newer model
> tubes. It also allowed the unit to still be used with older color tube sets
> by using the resistors to reduce the current by basically 1/3 of the
> combined values of the three co-joined positions. (I know, this is probably
> wrong but I told you I wasn't an engineer).
>
> Question 3: Assuming I am correct in Question 1, do I need to make the
> jumper/resistor modification in order to make these 465's work properly
> using the rewired cable with the additional switch to the molex connector if
> I leave the switch in the "R" position? What to do with wires 2 and 11
> (Brown and Green) from the original harness? I don't plan on testing old
> color TV tubes or anything else for that matter.
>
> Question 4: Am I an idiot for spending so much time on this project ?
> (Probably over 20 hours so far)
>
> This has certainly proved to be an informative endeavor and if anything
> else, I learned that not all bargains are truly a bargain. I anxiously
> await some hearty discussion. I can post photos of anything if that would
> help. I also have 465 wiring diagrams.
>
> Thanks
>
> Pat D.
Some of those early BK checkers used a rejuvenation method more akin to a small
nuclear explosion rather than a measured rejuvenation.
I would be trying to find a older sencore (CR-70 or newer).
Sencore has special sockets with pigtails (or they used to)
to hook up to strange tubes. The sencore also has a staged rejuvenation that is
much more likely to help you rather than destroy the tube.
Bob
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
- Next message: Orange: "Re: TV has 130V DC on A/V input!"
- Previous message: Tom MacIntyre: "Re: TV has 130V DC on A/V input!"
- In reply to: Pat D.: "Tech: B&K 465 conversion help needed. Long post"
- Next in thread: JURB6006: "Re: Tech: B&K 465 conversion help needed. Long post"
- Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ]
Relevant Pages
|
