Re: Voltage stability in old truck
From: gothika (Vampyres_at_nettaxi.com)
Date: 09/10/04
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2004 00:59:02 -0500
On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 01:59:18 GMT, "James Sweet"
<jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>"gothika" <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote in message
>news:0livj01rf08ahiu9fktg6bamg2bs1edn0l@4ax.com...
>> On Wed, 08 Sep 2004 16:30:21 GMT, "Jack" <jacksimpson@telus.net>
>> wrote:
>> You should be running your dashboard off the battery, not straight off
>> the charging circuit.
>> At the very least your voltage regulator should be smoothing out any
>> voltage you pull fromt he charging circuit to run the radio or
>> dashboard fixtures.
>> And you could of course easily convert that 6 volt system over to 12.
>> >
>>
>
>The battery is connected straight to the charging circuit so running off the
>battery is running off the charging circuit. Voltage regulators, especially
>old electromechanical regulators are not remotely precision devices, the
>output has all kinds of spikes and dips and the RMS voltage charging a lead
>acid battery is significantly higher than the rated output of the battery.
>
You replace the old regulator with a new solid state regulator.
I've restored alot of antique autos in my time, alot.
That's one of the first things you do is strip out the old wiring
harness and components and upgrade to a 12v system, ALWAYS.
Yes I know about the charging rates, in 12v systems the charge rate at
2,500 rpms is usually in the range of 13.4 to 15v.
In older 6v systems it could vary from 6.9v to as high as 9v, all of
which was detrimental to the battery and ancillory electrical devices.
(The main reason the industry switch to 12v systems, 6v batteries just
could not hold up under constant use and the variable charge rates as
well as being limited in the amount of loads from the ever increasing
number of system accessories that were being added to cars.)
All the orginal poster has to do is convert to 12v and his problems
would be solved.
There was a time when a solid state 6v regulator could be had, as well
as a decent 6v altenator. Those days are pretty much passed.
simply upgrade the harness, replace the generator with a 12v altenator
and 12v regulator and all lamps and lights with 12v.
Then you can install a 12v radio.
Going this route will give you much more to choose from in vintage
replacement radios.(there are services that restore and sell them,
Rare Parts Service comes to mind. RPS)
BTW if you take a look at the electrical design of virtually any auto
made in the past 30 years you'll see that the function of the
altenator is not to run the entire electrical system of the
engine/car, but to simply charge the battery.
Doubly so with those with computer systems/fuel injection etc....
The regulator and/or the onboard electronics "traps" the charge coming
from the altenator to prevent it use in the system.(this is to prevent
damage to the electronics and engine from using fluctuating voltage.
A real no-no when you have an onboard computer, fuel injection and
variable valve controls. They must have smooth, clean constant voltage
to perform properly.)
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