Re: Receiver Control Panel


"Ray L. Volts" <raylvolts@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:vyexf.35408$v84.15529@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> "afinpdx" <afinpdx@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
> news:1137006815.176815.220640@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Hello-
>>
>> I'm not sure if this is the right forum for this question, but here
>> goes.
>>
>> I am putting together a stereo cabinet and I would like to mount the
>> control panel for the receiver (buttons, knobs etc.) in a location that
>> is slightly separated from where the receiver case itself would sit.
>> Here are my questions:
>>
>> -Is this possible? My thought is that the control panel probably has
>> wires running to electronics in the case of the receiver. If I could
>> just extend those wires, then I could mount the panel elsewhere on the
>> cabinet.
>>
>> -Is there any recommended type/brand/model of receiver that would make
>> this particularly easy to do? I haven't chosen the receiver I will
>> use yet. I have pretty limited requirements feature-wise (radio, cd
>> input, aux input, A/B speaker channels), so if there is a new or
>> old-ish receiver I should consider please let me know.
>>
>> I appreciate any help,
>> afinpdx
>>
>
> Unless this is for some kind of art or furniture project, it would be so
> much simpler to just use an IR remote receiver or, if the entire unit is
> to be hidden, extend the unit's IR receiving module.
>
> If you simply must have visible control knobs, read on.
>
> It's easy enough to relocate controls, but you need to be aware that some
> problems can arise in doing so -- induced noise, for one.
>
> Use shielded cable, especially on longer runs. You *could* try twisted
> pair configurations, but you *could* also be sorry you wasted your time.
> You will want to add shielding to the new panel if it isn't metal. You
> may also need to add extra shielding to the pot casings, depending on the
> design of the original pots, where the new location is and what the
> controls are moved near.
>
> If panel shielding is required, heavy aluminum foil will suffice. Use one
> large *** of foil running the length of the panel and, if need be, pinch
> up enough extra for each pot so that you can wrap the entire pot casing.
> To ground the new panel, simply bolt on a ground wire ring terminal and
> run it to a proper receiver chassis ground. The secondary panel (required
> to hide the pot nuts) will hide the ground bolt head as well.
> If you need to wrap the pots with the foil, remember to first cover the
> outside surfaces of the solder terminals with a strip of rubber electrical
> tape. The adhesive on vinyl tape tends to turn gelatinous over time and
> it can leave behind a real gooey mess when/if you need to rework the
> terminals. Rubber tape is thicker, conforms well to the terminals and
> comes off cleanly, even decades later. You could use rubber caulk, but it
> can be much more of a hassle to remove.
>
>
> Good luck,
> Ray
>

That's all very nice, except that most modern audio equipment makes the
connections between the front panel and main panel, using one or more
flexiprints, which are in no way ' easily ' extendable. Volume controls are
for the most part, no longer pots, instead being rotary encoders,
controlling ' electronic pot ' ICs, via the system control micro. Likewise
for tone control, tuning, source switching etc.

In order to do what you want to, and about the only practical way is along
the lines that Ray suggests, is to find an old piece of kit that would lend
itself to being modded in that way. I think that you will struggle to do it
to a modern item.

Arfa


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