Re: Whirlpool dryer heater failure
- From: "Seán O'Leathlóbhair" <jwlawler@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 13:33:44 -0800 (PST)
On Feb 5, 11:27 am, jwlaw...@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
On Feb 4, 6:12 pm, jakdedert <jakded...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
jwlaw...@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
On Feb 4, 1:09 pm, Sam Goldwasser <s...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
jwlaw...@xxxxxxxxx writes:
On Feb 4, 10:42 am, jwlaw...@xxxxxxxxx wrote:It's very likely the heating element is the problem especially if the
My Whirlpool electric tumble dryer AWZ241 has failed. Last Friday, theI just checked the local spares shop. They could get me a new element
house's circuit breaker tripped when it was turned on. After
resetting the circuit breaker and trying the dryer, it did not trip
again. The dyer runs but does not get hot. I guess that the heater
and / or an internal fuse has blown.
Any other guesses of possible explanations?
Anyone know how easy this will be to fix?
I am not quite sure how old the dryer is. At least 5 years. It came
with an offer of an extended 8 year guarantee but we did not take it.
Anyway, it might be as much as 8 years old.
I have a good collection of tools (including a multimeter), access to
a reasonably good spare parts shop, good understanding of electricity,
and some experience of working of these devices. For example, I have
successfully changed the drive belt of dryers and repaired the door
switches. I have not yet had any cause to open up this one.
in a day and it would cost £35. So, provided that is the fault and it
is not too hard to change, it seems worth doing. Now, I need to work
up the energy to take the thing apart.
dryer operated normally the laser time it was used. Replacement
should be straightforward. However, it's worth checking the thermostatsm
and of course for lint buildup which can lead to overheating.
Thanks. Yes, the dryer was working apparently fine last Thursday. I
will check the thermostat as well when I have opened it up. Where
might lint build up except for the filter just inside the door? I
have already checked and cleaned this. There was little on it at the
time of failure, we clean it regularly.
Lint can build up anywhere in the airflow path...significant cause of
accidental fires. Check the entire exhaust path, both inside and
external to the dryer.
jak
Thanks again.
I was busy last night and will be busy again tonight but I should be
able to take it apart Wednesday. With some luck, I will have it
working by the weekend.
Took it apart tonight. It was easier than I expected. Unfortunately,
the next step, the diagnosis, was harder than I expected. So, a bit
of humble pie; I though that understanding the electrics would be the
easy bit.
Three wires: black, red, and brown come from the controller to the
element. The red and black go to little devices which might be
thermal cut-outs mounted on the side of the element. If they are cut-
outs then it is a puzzle that they are in both lines. The outputs
from these devices go the element itself. The brown goes directly to
the same element terminal as the red indirectly goes. What's going
here, is the brown a feedback to the controller so that it knows
whether the cut-out is passing current? But, if the other one failed
it wouldn't know.
Now the real puzzle. I don't know the power of the element but I
would guess at least 1kW and at most 3kW. So (at 240V), the
resistance should be a dozen or so ohms. However my meter thinks the
resistance is infinite even on the 20MOhm setting. So, this would
suggest the element is dead. However, the meter cannot detect any
voltage between any pair of the red, black, and brown wires. Surely
there are not two simultaneous faults: the element dying and something
wrong in the controller? A final explanation is that the controller
runs the motor for some time before sending power to the element. Is
this likely? I ran the dyer for about a minute with the meter
connected to the red and black wires.
--
Sean Ó Leathlobhair
.
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