Re: Marshall JCM 2000

Gareth Magennis <gareth.magennis@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:Xy0Vk.3944$iQ2.2666@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

"N_Cook" <diverse@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:gg1491$bck$1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Latching switch types ok for VCRs etc, with tight clearances but not
here.
2
DPDT worn , leading to snap crackle and pop etc unless you hold the knob
in
or out. There is about 2mm of play between the knobs and the holes in
the
metal of the front/rear panels. Replace those 2 plus 2 more with same
flimsey 0.1 inch pin spacing switches and try and find or make larger
knobs
? Replace with heavier duty switches, larger footprint , requiring
re-positioning/drilling/wiring-in ?
The 2 off 4PDT switches maybe more resilient to off axis loading so will
leave as is , unless anyone knows better.


--


Actually, after re-reading your post more carefully, you are right about
the
problem.

I changed one of those yellow switches on a Marshall TSL100 about 4
o'clock
this afternoon. There is indeed far too much play in the knob / chassis
hole arrangement, so maybe this is more the problem rather than the
switches
themselves being inferior.

I would still replace them with the blue ones, even though the one I
replaced this afternoon was a Marshall stock yellow one. (Only because I
didn't have a blue one and the guy needs the amp tomorrow, but ..... what
to
do?)

I think you will find the blue ones negate the need for faffing too much
with the oversize hole problem.


Gareth.





the way to remove the knobs is to squash slightly in a flat jawed vice,
diagonally relative to the square stems. To break the melt between black and
yellow. Always leaves a crack or undisguised seam, cannot decide which


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/





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