Re: Roland E-20 synthesiser keyboard

Roy wrote:
"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:FsEcl.72125$626.30409@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
"jakdedert" <jakdedert@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:nZscl.5366$e13.4379@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Roy wrote:
Hi, I wonder if anyone can help me with this. Two of the keys do not produce any sound and one of the keys (approximately in the middle) seems to be sticking up about 8 mm proud of the other keys. Although I am from an electronics background (TVand Video servicing) I have never had any dealings with one of these before. If anyone can point me in the right direction for a workshop service manual or has any tips I would really appreciate it! I have spent a couple of hours googling but all I can find is that it was manufactured in 1988 or thereabouts. I found how to do the factory reset but this didnt do anything, and also got the user manual. Thanks in advance for any help.
Roy


The key that is sticking up is almost certainly broken. The keys that don't sound are almost certainly because the key contacts are dirty or worn.

You don't need a service manual. Just take off the lower casing and work out what is required to remove the keyframe assembly - usually unscrewing lots of screws and perhaps removing some circuit boards.
The key contact strips are under the keys. On some keyboards you need to remove the keys to access them, on others you unscrew the circuit boards from under the keys to access them leaving the keys in place.

You may be able to clean the dirtry strips and the PCB they act on, or it may be better to buy a new set of strips with the new key you will need to buy from Roland, neither are particularly expensive. Clean the PCB contacts carefully with alcohol and cotton buds before fitting the new or cleaned strips.



Gareth.
Thanks for the responses guys. I will probably be ok once I manage to get into the beast (one of the reasons I was after a service manual). So far have removed all of the arrowed screws on the underside together with a couple that were not arrowed. (7 x 20mm round head, 2 x 12mm roundhead and 2 x 20mm countersunk).The only ones I have not removed are four marked "Do Not Remove" (natch!). Judging by the spacing I think they are probably securing the power supply/transformer. The top does still not want to part company with the bottom and I do not want to start jemmying. It seems to seperate by about 20mm all the way round except at the back.

Roy


Use something like a heavy guitar pick to work around the seam. Likely either top needs to flex in, or vice versa, to release a tab.

(Almost as likely: you've already figured this out....)

jak
.

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