Re: Roland E-20 synthesiser keyboard


"Andrew Erickson" <gmavt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:gmavt-408D89.18451819012009@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
In article <384dl.6050$G24.5163@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,
jakdedert <jakdedert@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Roy wrote:
Thanks for the responses guys. I will probably be ok once I manage to
get
into the beast (one of the reasons I was after a service manual). So
far
have removed all of the arrowed screws on the underside together with a
couple that were not arrowed. (7 x 20mm round head, 2 x 12mm roundhead
and
2
x 20mm countersunk).The only ones I have not removed are four marked
"Do
Not
Remove" (natch!). Judging by the spacing I think they are probably
securing
the power supply/transformer. The top does still not want to part
company
with the bottom and I do not want to start jemmying. It seems to
seperate
by
about 20mm all the way round except at the back.

Roy


Use something like a heavy guitar pick to work around the seam. Likely
either top needs to flex in, or vice versa, to release a tab.

(Almost as likely: you've already figured this out....)

This probably goes without saying, but it might be necessary to remove
any grub nuts, binding screws, etc. from the various connectors on the
back panel and/or knobs etc. from the switchgear on top.

--
Andrew Erickson

"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot
lose." -- Jim Elliot

Hi again guys, finally managed to get into the beast. The screw in the
middle was an absolute pig to remove. Turning the unit rightside up, I was
able to flip the lid over to the rear. This revealed a pleasant surprise,
not a surface mount component in sight! Oh Joy!. The keyboard itself was a
complete unit retained by 4 screws into the cabinet base, electrically
connected via a pcb connector on a short ribbon cable to one of the main
boards so I was able to remove it in its entirety. The contacts, if you can
call them that, look like short lengths of springy heavy gauge silvered
guitar string, soldered at pcb ends and passing between two wire contacts to
the end of the key. The wires to the ends of the dead keys had popped out of
the ends of the keys. Fixed in a jiffy! The other fault with the key
standing proud of the others seems to be the loss of a plastic or rubber
stop which fits on a metal tab beneath the key. It doesnt seem to be
floating around in the cabinet anywhere so I will probably improvise
something ie bit of coax sleeving or somesuch. I an going to have to remove
the key to get at it though - and its not immediately apparent what holds
the keys on.
Thanks for all the help and advice so far.

Roy


.

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