Re: Post Crowns

Aosmosis wrote:

"Mark & Steven Bornfeld" <bornfeldmung@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:yFIpf.4053$u36.2379@xxxxxxxxxxx

Aosmosis wrote:


"Amatus Cremona" <Nicola@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:Ojzpf.43482$Zv5.39522@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx


Forget the posts once you graduate. If the crown was going to fall off without it, the tooth is doomed anyway. You may need to perform the P&C during school to impress the instructors. I personally, like making the core part of the onlay or partial crown, but no post.




I did my first one last week using the parapost system. We did the theory over a year ago.

I was really scared of causing a root fracture whilst trying to enlarge the canal with the parapost burs, so I went really slow. The prep took an hour.


The tooth was LL5. The mesial aspect was subgingival.

I placed a 1.2mm shoulder buccally and 0.5mm chamfer palatally. In the end, the ferrule I created was wafer thin. My instructor told me it was a loose loose situation (through no fault of my own)

as if I had left those wafer thin walls in place it would have fractured during the casting process.
Without a ferrule you increase the incidence of root fracture or post crown failure.

In the end he told me to make sure that the post and core was made from a non precious metal, so that it can be sandblasted and etched for bonding with Panavia.

I want to try different techniques such as the indirect-direct technique (the building up with duralay)


You're unlikely to fracture a root by preping it. Never force the drill.
One thing you may do (I have): you may enlarge a canal in a curved root and cause a perforation even if you aren't off line. This is most likely to happen on the distal aspect of mesial roots of lower molars and palatal aspect of buccal roots of upper molars, as well as premolars.
I have not totally abandoned posts myself, though I certainly am more circumspect about their use than I used to be.

Steve




Thanks steve, The roots were pretty straight, and I made sure that I was going paralell to the root at all times. I used an up and down motion, but didnt want to put too much downward pressure.
I was initially getting very frustrated as I meassured 8mm from the post obturation radiograph. Trying to get a no.4 gates glidden to this mark was very laborious. I was going to use peezo reamers, but they had run out.

I looked on coltene whaledent website about how to get the most from the parapost system, but there is nothing there. I find this hard to beleive that manufactures give so little support for their product and expect you to splash out and pay $$$$$$$. That is really unfair!

The instructions would be great for novices like myself.





A #4 gates glidden is pretty big. I use a smaller one--maybe a 2 or 3 as a pilot drill only. As you know, they are not end-cutting, so they will follow the gutta percha pretty well. Using an in and out motion is a good idea to get the feel, but if you use a light touch you will soon be able to go right in. They are safer than peesos of the same size, esp. in curved canals. They do break at the shank, so you should have some needle clamp or silver point clamp (boy am I showing my age) handy to retrieve it if it breaks. Then you can go in with the appropriate size parapost drill. You don't want to force those in.

Good luck,
Steve
	


--
Mark & Steven Bornfeld DDS
http://www.dentaltwins.com
Brooklyn, NY
718-258-5001
.

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