Re: Some radon help. Better understanding pressure system.
- From: "hhc314@xxxxxxxxx" <hhc314@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 15:29:40 -0800 (PST)
On Jan 7, 7:25 pm, ceh <cehup...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
So, I've got some radon problems. Initial level 70. Sorry for the
length, trying to be clear.
I've contacted _pros_ and they run away as fast as possible and they
haven't offer any suggestions.
I have a new house about 30x70 with a full basement and a footing down
the middle.
I had the radon pipe installed when the house was built, under the
floor is large 2" crushed stone.
The basement has 7' concrete foundation walls, almost all of which is
underground.
I caulked everything. It seems pretty air tight.
I installed a radon fan and get about 1" of water drop on 1 side of a
manometer.
I guess this is 1" of H20 pressure? or is it 2"?
Anyway, there is vacuum pressure. Yet, my radon levels are still
around 20.
I drilled some other 1" holes around the perimeter of the basement to
make sure that air could circulate via the crushed stone. There is
suction for sure. If I hold tissue over the hole it is sucked right
in.
So, I'm trying to understand what I should see as far as radon leaving
the sub floor.
Once the fan runs for a few minutes shouldn't I get a vapor lock? If
I were to go to the exhaust end of the pipe, I should see very little
wind after 10 mins or so correct? If not, how is it possible for that
much air to get replenished?
Another issue, is at the exhaust in the attic, I didn't want to run it
out of the front roof of my house for cosmetic purposes, so I plumbed
in more 3" pvc that goes up over the ridge and down the other side and
then up again to the final exhaust.
Some bad ascii art to illustrate.
/\
|/ \
V |
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Could this cause a problem? Is there an issue where the heavy radon
gas can't get pushed up over this hump? There is wind coming out of
the exhaust on the roof. But is the actual radon part staying in the
pipe?
My fan does is rated at 0" h20 @ 160 CFM or 2" h20 at 0 CFM
I installed 2 additional 6" fans 4 feet above the floor. They tie in
together to the existing 3" pipe. The new fans are rated 2.5" or
350CFM
Then, My radon levels went up. So, I'm at a loss, and could really
use some suggestions.
Some have mentioned piping fresh outside air into the sub floor thus
washing the bad air out, but from all the literature I read, you want
vacuum pressure more than anything. Even when I open the basement
windows and expose the test holes I drilled which are sucking air in
like crazy, I barely see any improvement and usually, the levels go
up.
Thanks for any insight.
Please don't suggest moving... I've heard that a million times.
The first queston that should be asked is where (in what section of
the country) do you live, and was your home build on top of granite or
some other radioactive bearing carrying mineral?
If you don't live in Northern New England with a home build one top of
radioactive ledge, you likely have no problem
The Radon scare was something that swept though New England about 10
years ago, largely promoted by Radon remediate contractors to turned
quite a few bucks out of this thing. For the most part, it turned out
to be a scam. Still people took it seriously. I can even remember
seeing the granite faced lobby of 101 Huntington Ave, at Prudential
Center in Boston outfitted with hundreds a plastic tubes leading to
Radon sniffers, then they vanished almost overnight because Prudential
hired some nuclear physicists as consultant, who in turn evaluated the
measurement recorded and concluded that the Radon hazard was
insignificant -- Less than 1% of the normal radiation levels encounted
by anyone living on earth!
Actually, the least expensive and most accurate way of dealing with
your fears would be to contact a resplected nuclear testing firm, who
will in turn give you some activated carbon blocks to place in your
basement for a month. At the end of the month, you return them to the
testing firm, who will in turn give you a professional opinion about
your Radon risk evaluation. Never, never ask a Radon remediation
contractor to do this for you.
Your total cost for this service, depending on locale, will run
between $150 and $200, but the information returned from a competent,
professional firm will tell you to either dump your home, or that you
have nothing to be worried about.
In case where your home is sitting on top of a rich radium or uranium
deposit that is emitting large quantities of Radon gas, the mineral
rights beneath your property are likely worth far more than your home,
so on either test result you would be a winner! Just do it on a
timely basis.
Harry C, (Yes, I am one of the few physicists that continue to post
here on sci.physics)
.
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